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The man stood and watched the action at the roulette tables while the monkey, a capuchin with a brush cut like its owner’s, swiveled its head from side to side. Once, between spins of the wheel, the monkey leaped onto the baize table and then back into its owner’s arms.It was a Friday night, in an affluent Caracas neighborhood called Las Mercedes, and inside the casino, which had opened a few weeks earlier, gamblers pulled crisp $100 bills off thick rolls of American cash.The same silent older women who populate casinos everywhere fed $10 and $20 bills into video slot machines.The national currency, the bolivar—named after The Liberator, Simón Bolívar, the country’s anti-imperialist founding father—was nowhere in sight.A group of men roared over wins and losses at a roulette table where the brightly colored chips cost $1 each.What passed for the high rollers in the place convened at another roulette table, where the croupier swept away as much as $1,000 in chips after each spin.I struck up a conversation with a man who had geometric tattoos on his right forearm.We talked about how the casinos had been banned for years by Venezuela’s self-proclaimed socialist government.I asked why, all of a sudden, in the midst of the country’s catastrophic economic collapse, the government had allowed casinos to operate again.He was a gambling man—perhaps he’d had a bad night—and he gave a wry laugh behind his blue paper face mask. When I left the casino I stood for a moment on the sidewalk out front and looked up at the three large video screens mounted high on the building’s brick facade. It showed packs of $100 bills raining from the sky until they filled up the screens.

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The nation has experienced hyperinflation and an outflow of millions of refugees.Hyper-devaluation has left the bolivar virtually worthless.Economic sanctions by the United States, piled on by former President Donald Trump in an attempt to quickly force Maduro from power—and continued under President Joe Biden—have added to the misery. The United Nations World Food Programme estimated in 2020 that a third of the country’s residents were “food insecure” and in need of assistance to put enough food on the table.About 6 million people (a fifth of the pre-crisis population) have fled the country.Maduro’s answer to the political pressure has been repression: crack down on protestors, jail opponents, manipulate elections.The most recent example occurred during my visit in November, when the Supreme Court nullified a key governor’s election, in Chávez’s home state of Barinas, that appeared to have been won by an opposition candidate.On the economic front, Maduro started out with gross mismanagement, including immense deficit spending that sent inflation soaring above 300,000 percent a year.But recently Maduro has embarked on a different course.While maintaining his loud socialist-flavored public pronouncements, he has slashed public spending and social programs.And, with the devaluation of the bolivar, he has embraced the dollar.

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This is the new Venezuela, where games of chance substitute for oil wells and the image of Bolívar has been replaced by the face of a new liberating hero: Benjamin Franklin.The late Hugo Chávez, the founder of what he called Venezuela’s Bolivarian Revolution, decried capitalism as a casino economy, and he derided casinos as a social ill akin to drug addiction and prostitution.His government forced them to close; the last one shut its doors about a decade ago.But today, under Chávez’s acolyte and successor as president, Nicolás Maduro, the whole country has become a casino, where millions are stuck in a daily, low-stakes struggle for dollar chips and a few high rollers stuff their pockets with greenbacks.I , and I returned regularly after that, until the coronavirus pandemic interrupted travel.When I went back in November after two years away, one of the first people I spoke with was a middle-class friend who was, like nearly everyone here, having a hard time making ends meet.“There are two Venezuelas,” my friend said.“The one where people have dollars”—he meant bank accounts full of them—“and the one where people make $5 a month.” He was exaggerating.Government workers (including his wife) currently receive a monthly salary of seven bolivars, which is equivalent to about $1.50.Anne Applebaum: Venezuela is the eerie endgame of modern politics Since Chávez’s death in 2013, Venezuela has gone through an extended political and economic crisis.Over eight years, the economy has shrunk by about 80 percent—an unprecedented collapse in a country not at war.

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